Saturday June 11th, 2011
I yawned, stretched my back and rolled over. There was a single bar of light coming through the bottom of the curtained window; speckled dust passed through it, a million bright ambassadors of morning. My hiking pack lay upon the floor. My boots were next to the pack with a pair of socks on top of them. Underneath the blanket, I remembered I was already wearing my hiking clothes.
I yawned again, wiped the sleep from my eyes, and jumped out of bed onto my feet. Quickly I moved around the room folding the blanket, putting my boots on, and readying my pack. As I walked around, the Achilles tendon on my right foot creaked and stretched while it woke up with me. I sat down long enough to write a thank you note to Jun for letting me stay for the night.
Then I walked to Jun's room. Though the door was open, I lightly knocked and Jun woke up. Somehow I felt uncomfortable being there, even though he made dinner, gave me a place to sleep and a shower to use. While I descended the wooden stairs of Jun's second floor apartment, he waved goodbye from the doorway.
Maybe it was the early hours or my aching tendons, but the sidewalks that morning felt particularly coarse on my body. Each step sent a shock through my body, up from my foot to my knees, hips, chest, and shoulders until it tingled from my fingertips like a nervous jitter from drinking three cups of coffee, perhaps leaving a bitter taste upon my tongue.
I unstrapped my pack and swung it onto a bench; already sweat had damped my shirt underneath my shoulder straps and at the small of my back. Perhaps as a lady disapprovingly stared underneath her wide-brimmed hat as she caught a wiff of my hiker odour. I took a couple trail bars from my pack, ate one, and put the other in my waist pocket. I took a drink from a nearly empty canteen that I had forgotten to fill.
A solitary biker went by as I ate a honey oat trail bar. The trail was quiet when I heard the sound of trickling water. Across the tracks, there was a spring flowing down an embankment into a ditch along the railway. I wondered how odd it would look to bend down and fill my bottles from the stream as I looked up and down the path. I imagined myself caught unaware by a passing jogger as I crouched near the river. Would I jump up and run into the brush?
Carefully placing pack next to the path, I took my filter and bottles and crossed the railroad tracks to the stream.
I returned to my pack as a morning jogger went by. In my hands, water beaded on the surface of the cold metal bottles and then dripped to the pavement. I said a hello as she went by. She jogged off with her back to me as her calves tensed and relaxed in rhythm. I took some snacks out – pringles chips and a jar of peanut butter – and I lay down on the grass using my pack as a pillow.
While I reclined upon the grass, a deer came out of the brush. It poked it's hooves at the soil near the trail. I sat silently, unmoving. Slowly I moved an arm toward the side pocket of my pack, reaching for my camera. The metal zipper jingled and the deer looked up. A good distance off, the deer didn't startle and run. The deer watched me knowing it could quickly escape, perhaps posing for all of my photos. When three yellow birds with black wings swooped over in formation I quickly snapped several photos, hoping to capture that moment you gaze over in a magazine, yet the camera panned too fast and I merely captured a blur.
I continued the trail to the crunch of my own footsteps, walking along, with occasional biker zooming past, head bent down, muscles tensed and working the peddles at full speed. From behind, I heard an approaching set of tires slow. I looked over my shoulders to see a woman riding a beach bicycle with the long handled bars and a front basket – wearing a casual blue dress with a flower print and tights.
I stopped and offered a greeting.
"I'm riding into Cumberland. It's not too often you see hikers on this trail. You seem like the kind of person worth talking to," she said.
"What are you up to in Cumberland?" I asked.
"Just going to visit some friends and hang out for Heritage Days. Are you staying in Cumberland?"
"I was thinking about it. I need to take a day off and give my ankle some rest. It's not used to carrying this weight or walking this much," I said as I unbuckled the waist off my pack and shifted the straps off my shoulders, setting the pack upon the ground.
"How far are you going. I mean, how long are you out for, a few days, a few weeks? Are you taking the trail all the way into Washington DC?" she asked.
"I'm not sure yet. I thought this might me a nice change for the summer. It would be nice to walk into DC, maybe see the sights. But I'd also like to keep going, maybe pick up the Appalachian Trail and keep heading south to Georgia," I said.
The woman smiled, "You're a long way from Georgia. Do you think you could make it there by the end of summer?"
"I would have to sit down and crunch some numbers. I think its possible, but I would really have to find my stride and put some miles on. I guess I'm just figuring things out as I go," I said.
She smiled.
"Do you want an apple?" she asked.
"I'd love an apple," I said.
In the front basket of the bike, she reached into a bag pulled out her cellphone and checked the time and then pulled out an apple and handed it to me.
I peeled the sticker off and bit into it. "Are you from around here?" I asked as I wiped a bit of juice from the corner of my mouth."
"I grew up in Cumberland. That's where my family lives. After I graduated from college, I got a job teaching back at an elementary in Frostberg," she said.
I rolled the sticker with my fingertips and put it in my back pocket.
"What do you teach?" I asked.
"4th grade."
"I expect your students love you," I said.
"Some days more than others," she said.
"Do you ride this trail often?" I asked.
"As often as I can. Which isn't too much lately. However, in a few weeks I'm taking a trip to Australia," she said.
"Oh?" I said.
"Yeah," she said with a smile. "I'm going for almost an entire month. I'm going to backpack around see the cities, walk some trails, crash on people's couches. Have you ever couch-surfed?" she asked.
"Like where you just crash on random people's couches? No, I haven't," I said.
"You should definitely look into it. It seems kind of weird, but you really meet the coolest people. Might be worth looking into if you're going to be out for a while," she said.
"Maybe I will. Hey, do you know where I might find camping around town?" I asked.
"How long are you going to be around here?" she asked.
"I thought I might take a day off. Rest my ankle," I said.
"You should get in touch with me when you're in Cumberland. We could hit the festival," she said.
The woman looked up the path. Then, she smiled and looked at me again. She rifled through her bag again and produced a scratch pad and pen.
"I'm Melissa. I don't think I mentioned my name," she said as she wrote down her phone number.
"Jake," I said.
She ripped the white piece of paper off and handed it to me.
"Call me tomorrow," she said.
"I definitely will," I said.
"I better get going. Im glad we bumped into each other," she said.
"I'm glad you took the time to stop and say hello. Most bikers zoom right by. If I'm lucky I might get a nod," I said.
"Maybe it's because you're tall. You look intimidating," she said with a smile.
"Maybe that's it," I said.
Melissa stood on the pedal and the bike slowly rolled forward. Watching her ride off, once Melissa made it a little ways past a Mulberry tree shedding its fruit onto the the sidewalk with dark purple splotches, she looked over her shoulder, smiled again, and gave a quick wave, before she slowly shrank into the distance and disappeared around a corner.
As I continued my hike, the path provided more attractions, and more joggers passed me by as an indication I was nearing town. I stopped to read a sign posted to a gated fence, that said "Bone Cavern," and talked about unearthed remains of varying mammals such as saber-toothed cats. I eyed the tall fence, and observed the collapsed entrance to see if it might be passable.
I lay in the leaves using my pack as a headrest while I stared up through the trees and listened for her motor to start back up and take her down the path again. After I heard the cushioned steps of a few joggers go by, I peeked again over the ridge to see the woman still sitting in the wheelchair. I waited and rested as a small throng of mosquitoes crept out of the woods and started to swarm me. Calmly I pushed them away as they hovered above my handed and landed to bite again. Inevitably, I decided to move on and maybe come back another time.
I stood up and put on my pack. As I descended the small hill out of the forest, I stopped see the woman sleeping in her chair as I stepped onto the trail and continued. Not too far from the bone cavern, there was a plaque telling the history of the Lover's Leap on the bluffs above the Cumberland Valley. I eyed the cliffs past the river and past the highway. I read the story of a young Native princess who fell in love with a white man. Their love forbidden by her father, the chief, the young princess couldn't dream of a life lived without her lover. Hand in hand, the couple walked to the top of the lover's leap and jumped off the cliffs together.
Looking at the cliff's in the distance, across the river valley, underneath a lush forest, the cliff's cleaved above all. My spirit for adventure called me to them just to see the view, but I couldn't conceive how I might find my way to the top of them. Content to walk my own path, I continued down the trail into Cumberland.
The very next thing to tug at my strings was the wafting smell of barbecue carried on the breeze from half a mile out of town. The trail tamed itself. Forest and bramble thickets gave way to plants herded by fences and mulch. Old chapel spires climbed out of the trees into the horizon. I discovered the source of the smell, a restaurant across the river. I continued past it wanting to get settled for the day before I explored the town.
Soon mulched flower beds became potted plants. Concrete overpasses and an aqueduct corralled the the trail along the river and then across it as I followed the path downtown.
A festival in full swing, I didn't feel too odd carrying my pack through town as hungry city-folk reverted to primal stages scarfing down hot dogs and various meats on a stick. As I followed the path past a train marked "Cumberland Railroad" packed with a tourists and children with heads out the open windows, I came to the town's station.
I went into the station, asked a park guide for a suitable place to camp and discovered the local YMCA allowed camping for a suitable fee.
However, before I ventured into town I stopped at a picnic table for an afternoon meal. I ate peanut butter and tortillas, grinning as a looming grey sky opened to a slight drizzle that sent the festival-goers jogging for the nearest car or shelter.
In the mist of the rain, I packed up my food and walked into the town.
Tucked away in the backyard of the city, the Y turned out to be a wonderful place to camp for the night. I paid my ten dollars which gave me use of the tent site, showers and full use of the facility. Not in the mood to pass up such a bargain, I pitched my tent, then found a pair of swim trunks in the lost and found. I lounged around the heated pool. The warm water, melted the aches out my legs. After ten days on the trail, a night spent on trim soft lawn, feeling clean and rested would be comparable to staying at the choicest of hotels.
To make the night more perfect, I had company at my campsite. A woman and her ten year old son. Though they weren't fully accustomed to "roughin' it." From the back of her flatbed, she unpacked coolers full of food and a multi-roomed tent, complete with cots to sleep on. By the end of the night she would tell me, she loved to camp when she had the time, but it was a bit too much work setting up.
The woman worked for Meals on Wheels. She thought Heritage Days would be the right opportunity to take her son out for the weekend. They spent the day walking the trail and bird-watching, which her son was quite adept at.
"I saw a flock of yellow birds today with black wings. What might those be," I asked.
"You mean Goldfinches," he said, almost as if I was stupid.
"Would you like to join us for dinner? We have venison bologna, chips, and soda," the woman asked.
I gratefully accepted as I was encouraged to stuff myself beyond my stomach's capacity.
Contently fed, clean and in good spirit, I ended the day in the realization of life fully lived.


